Embroidery in Medical Textiles

Textile structures such as medical implants are widely used to replace and support soft tissues and can act as scaffolds in tissue engineering as they have the ability to provide optimal spatial and nutritional conditions for cell maintenance. Tissue engineering textiles and surgical implants have been used in vitro on tissues such as the liver, skin, bone, cartilage and muscle, including non-woven, woven and knitted fabrics.

An example of an embroidered surgical implant.

Embroidery technology allows the creation of highly complex 3D structures that can integrate structure dependent functions in the tissue, such as pore patterns and the ability to adjust a wide range of mechanical properties to match the properties of the host tissue.

As opposed to weaving where threads are arranged at flat angles, embroidery allows rounded shapes which enables the use of embroidered stents in the body, such as the one pictured above. This is used to repair abdominal aortic aneurysms, swellings in the main wall of the aorta, that are likely to rupture and can prove fatal.

An embroidered Tissue Scaffold.

What this highlights to me is just how significant textile technology is when it has the ability to save countless numbers of lives, it's just a brilliant use of textiles that often goes unnoticed. A number of people have told me that textile design is 'boring' and 'easy' when they ask me what I'm studying, and now I have yet another example of why they are just so wrong, not to mention patronising.

References:
Anand S (2001), 'Medical Textiles '99. Proceeding of the International Conference 24 & 25 August 1999', Woodhead Publishing Limited, p 200-6.

Wintermantel E, Mayer J, Eckert KL, Lüscher P, Mathey M (1996) 'Tissue Engineering Scaffolds Using Superstructures', Biomaterials, 17 p 18-92
http://www.swicofil.com/biomedical_textiles.http://www.tex.tuiasi.ro/biblioteca/carti/CARTI/Textile/Smart%20Fibres,%20Fabrics%20and%20Clothing/014.pdf

Image sources:
http://frankly.folksy.com/2011/11/18/the-power-of-making

http://www.amycongdon.com/?_escaped_fragment_=symbiotica-biological-bespoke/c1rgv

http://www.ellisdev.co.uk/vascular.html

Knitting in Medical Textiles

Knitting tends to involves a higher number of individual fibres than other biomedical textile engineering techniques, which can create higher intricacy and performance capabilities in textile structures. 

3D printed artificial blood vessel.

Knitted fabrics are the most widely 
used within medical textiles and are used frequently for: 

-Surgical mesh, gloves, masks and gowns.

-Prosthesis ligaments and bones

-Hernia repair

-Gynecological slings and prolapse devices

-Reconstructive and cosmetic surgery mesh

-Artificial blood vessels

-Bandages/ Wound Applications

- Surgical hosiery
-Pressure Gloves

Knitting is commonly used for manufacture of bandages in tubular form.

The weft knitting machine is chiefly used for production of two classes of medical textiles:
-support bandages and elastic bandages. 

Since these garments are to be continuously worn, the seams need to be very strong whilst allowing for fluid body movement. 

The warp knitting machines is used to manufacture wound dressings, 

bandages and vascular grafts. These tubular structures can best be produced on circular warp knitting 

machines.  

Successfully developed artificial blood vessels and bi-furcated valves are highly innovative and are an indication of the suitability of knitted tissue scaffolds as a potential substitute of non-woven scaffolds for tissue engineering.

A slightly unnerving list of human body parts that can be created using textile materials and into the body:

-Kidney
-Blood Vessel
-Cornea

-Liver
-Pancreas
-Nervous system
-Planted Hair
-Skin

-Lung

-Heart
-Muscle
-Bones & Tendon

I honestly do find this whole thing really fascinating, as it seems amazing to me that we are capable of building and repairing organs that can then fuse to living human tissue and become fully functional. In fact, the more I think about it the more I can appreciate the intelligence of it all and the more it astounds me.

References:
-Ray SC (2012). 'Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology', Woodhead Publishing Limited.
-Horrocks AR and Anand SC (2000). Handbook of Technical Textiles, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge in association with The Textile Institute, Abington.
-http://www.bmsri.com/structures-overview/
-http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/pdffiles/Nonwovens-For-Medical-Textiles.pdf

Image Sources:
-http://www.csiro.au/Organisation-Structure/Divisions/CMSE/Fibre-Science/MedicalTextiles.aspx
-http://thecoolgadgets.com/3d-printed-artifical-blood-vessels-two-photon-polymerization-and-3d-printing-technologies/

BioCouture: Suzanne Lee

Growing Textiles

BioCouture work investigates the use of microbes to grow a textile/ leather type biomaterial. Lee ferments bacteria from a dense layer, as opposed to to chemically exploiting materials. She is essentially using microbes that multiply and feed on waste which creates live, growing bacteria sheets., which she then stitches together to create her design.

The eco-friendly Kimono

This is a method of textile production that is an interesting alternative to using leather or synthetic fibres which produce a huge carbon footprint. Although not yet viable for mass production due to the time it takes to produce the materials and unpredictable usage life, I do think this is an interesting concept to keep an eye out for.

The 'leather' jacket. (My personal favourite)

References & Image sources:
http://www.businessweek.com/articles/2013-01-24/suzanne-lees-biocouture-fashion-grown-from-http://www.designboom.com/design/suzanne-lee-biocouture-growing-textiles/
http://www.yatzer.com/assets/Article/2493/images/vow-8-Bio-Couture-by-Suzanne-Lee-yatzer-4.jpg

Lecture 2: Innovative and Experimental Textiles.

Moving onto our second lecture the focus was on innovative and experimental fibre types, and to introduce us to the new materials and technology that are influencing contemporary design and production variations; in the hopes that this will educate us outside of the textile design process that we had become accustomed to.

Non- Traditional Fibre Sources:

Bast Fibres: A natural fibre source. Fibres such as Nettle, Jute and Ramie. These are quite linen-like and can be used for clothing as they can be very soft. Also Hemp, man's oldest cultivated fibre is very versatile as every part of the hemp plant can be used. It can be knitted and woven and turned into denim and it also has a natural strength and built in UV protection.

Leaf Fibres: A minority area, as only a few plants have the necessary atributes for fibre production. However those that are able to be used are from the Agave, Pineapple and Banana plants and can be used to create floorings and interior fabrics.

Bark Cloth:  First developed in Asia, Africa, Indonesia and the Pacific. Made my beating wet strips of the inner bark of trees into sheets, which can then be finished into different items. The production of these fibres has a carbon footprint less than zero. Not suitable for garment production but can be used for accessories.

Seed Fibres: Seed fibres, such as the ones that are taken from the Kapok tree, are fine light and silky fibres that are used predominately for insulation and fibre filling as these fibres are moisture resistant, buoyant, resilient and soft, but are not suitable for spinning. Synthetics have replaced most applications for Kapok fibres and now they are used mainly in life preservers. Coir fibres come from the fruit of the Coconut tree, they are hard wearing and abrasion resistant making them suitable for floor coverings, geotextiles and ropes. They are also a good example of an easily renewable natural fibre.

Peat Fibre: Organic plant remains found in Scandinavian peat bogs. They can be woven and knitted and are used for clothing, blankets, interiors and footwear. They have thermal qualities as well as being naturally antiseptic and antistatic. However there are many environmental issues that come with peat harvesting as many scientists believe that peat growth cannot compete with the rapid harvesting and it has been compared to deforestation in its effects of the environment.

Alginate (Seaweed): Brown seaweed is often blended with cellulose fibres. It has natural healing properties due to it's high iodine content and can be used functionally in medical applications. It is also dissolvable and can be used in devoré and invisible printing techniques.

Metal Fibres: Predominantly Copper, Steel and Aluminium. Metal content fibres have the ability for heat memory and therefore react well to heat. They are conductive, protecting against electromagnetic radiation and are detectable by radar. Some trousers have these metal fibres in the pockets to protect the wearer from mobile phone radiation.

Paper Textiles: Made from renewable resources of pine trees, cotton, rice and abaca (a form of banana plant). They are high strength, light fast, renewable, biodegradable textiles.

Latex: A rubber tree will produce latex for 40 years, which creates enough latex to create 10 pairs of latex gloves per week. Due to the growing problem of skin sensitivity in response to natural latex, a latex substitute can be produced from synthetic materials.

Man-made Synthetics: Such as Polyethylene, PVC, Polypropylene and Polyurethane. They have a high strength and can be heat set. They are used in industrial and sports textiles and also in the medical world as they can be germ resistant. These fibres and products can be recycled.

A spider silk cape.

Bio Fibres:  Biotechnology is gaining much attention in the textile world in recent years in the search to find a way of mass producing fibres in a way that is environmentally friendly. Dextrose from plants can create a fibre with an environmentally acceptable life cycle, such as PLA bio-plastic materials. Starch from maize potatoes and sugar beet can also be used to create within a closed loop cycle. A silk-like fibre can be produced from the casein in milk, therefore a profit can still be made from spoiled/waste milk. Investigations into fabric sources from animals and insects are leading to some very interesting results. Spider silk, for example, is one of the biologically engineered fibres being investigated via genetic modification as an alternative to harvesting silk worm cocoons and is statistically stronger than steel. there are also investigations into creating materials that can think, respond and take action such as Honeybee silk, which is 100x finer than human hair, skin friendly and biodegradable.

Innovative Textiles:

Growing Fabrics: BioCouture work investigates the use of microbes to grow a textile/leather type biomaterial, by fermenting bacteria from a dense layer, instead of chemically exploiting materials. Experiments have been made to harness the power of mycelium/fungi to create fabrics and materials that could potentially replace synthetics. The company Ecovative have 'grown' 3D packaging material from this mycelium/fungi.

High Tec Fibres: Carbon fibre is a fibre containing at least 90% carbon and lightweight material that is very strong. It is a good conductor of heat and power, which can be used for interactive uses such as  'smartphone gloves' that let you control touch screen devices whilst still protecting your hands in cold weather.

Fibre-Optics: Can be used for aesthetic purposes such as co-ordinated colour and pattern changes and also enables response, interaction and increased functionality as it can link with other wireless communications, take wireless broadband internet connections for instance.

Sprayed Fabrics: Fabrican is a creation of a liquid suspension, sprayed by a spray gun/ aerosol can. Fabric is formed by the cross-linking of fibres which create an instant non-woven textile that can be sprayed onto any surface.

Rapid Prototyping: UV beams are used to fuse layers of powdered thermoplastic into a desired shape/ mould. Products are recyclable and leave behind minimal waste. There is no use of needle and thread.

Oversized & Micro-sized Stitches: Playing with they scale and size of the knit to create unusual/inspiring pieces and products. Nano-knitters create unbelievably tiny miniature garments to scale. There can be up to 80 stitches per inch.

Biomimetics: The ability to mimic a living bio system, often coming form developments made by the military. Stomatex products use the principle of a leafs natural ability to perspire and keep dry to create breathable fabrics that can be used in protective clothing and sportswear. Speedo's Fastskin swim suit replicates the surface of shark skin and helps the swimmer move through water more freely. There are also investigations into to Gecko lizard's ability to stick to surfaces that are being developed into fabric constructions. 

Body Scanning: From body scanning, the body form can be used for 3D garment design which would be designed for and tailored to each individual person's body.

Moulded Fabrics: Yarns that are at least 60% synthetic can be moulded around a form and set to create the desired silhouette , with no cutting or sewing required.

Magnetism: Ferromagnetic materials such as iron or nickel. Ferromagnetism can be used to create textiles that can alter the fabric surfaces, often known as magic textiles. These materials can become permanently magnetised. Electronics can also be embedded into the fabric surface.

Zero Waste Cutting: Some garments can be created without any waste fabric being left over whatsoever, by using pattern cutting templates that use up every inch of fabric. However this technique is very difficulty, and impractical in the sense that it limits the range of different garment shapes that can be created, therefore it's use is not widespread in the commercial textile industry.

I found this lecture really interesting, although we were given so much information on fibres and technologies that i didn't know about that my wrist was hurting trying to frantically write as much as I could down. I find the innovative textiles so inspiring and yet so frustrating because I wish I had the means to try them all, but there's some technology there that I doubt I'll ever get my hands on!

References:

• http://www.textileschool.com/articles/359/natural-cellulosic-seed-fibres
• http://www.speedo.co.uk/infoadvice_1/infoadvice/fastskinlzrracerelite2/fastskin3technologiespg.html
• http://www.toolingu.com/definition-560210-86402-ferromagnetic-material.html
• http://www.stomatex.com/faqs.html

Image Sources:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bast_fibre
http://www.nma.gov.au/online_features/cook_forster/objects/poncho-like_garment_tiputa_oz421
http://charliegwillim.wordpress.com/2012/11/04/keireine-canavan-constructed-textiles-291012/
http://ssingh2301.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/fibres.html
http://arcticstudies.pbworks.com/w/page/13623330/Tundra
http://skin-wound-care.medical-supplies-equipment-company.com/calcium-alginate-dressings-391.htm
http://www.burnertech.co.uk/Products/Metal-Fibre/68/71/
http://kickcanandconkers.blogspot.co.uk/2010/04/shellie-holden.html
http://www.kew.org/plants/rubber.html
http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2012/jan/24/spider-silk-cape-show
http://www.designboom.com/design/suzanne-lee-biocouture-growing-textiles/
http://blog.proporta.com/smartphone-gloves-the-best-winter-accessory/
http://www.psgtechteam.com/telecom.html
http://news.softpedia.com/newsImage/Clothes-in-a-Can-Fabrican-Comes-Out-with-Spray-On-Fabric-2.jpg/
http://www.newmancraneins.com/2012/10/the-benefits-of-rapid-prototyping-in-the-manufacturing-industry/
http://ullaskovjensen.blogspot.co.uk/2012_10_01_archive.html
http://www.industrijski-dizajn.com/inspiracija/njeno-velicanstvo-majka-priroda-nepresusan-izvor-inspiracije/
http://www.ten24.info/?p=725
http://freshome.com/2011/12/13/redifining-the-connection-between-upholstery-and-fabric-olive-chair/
http://www.surfacedesign.org/newsblog/textile-magnetism-an-extraordinary-workshop-experience-with-jennifer-leary
http://bethnaomi22.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/zero-waste-pattern-cutting.html

An Introduction to Medical Textiles.

Following on from the lecture I really wanted to learn more about the world of medical textiles, therefore I thought it would be suitable to begin with a basic introduction to medical textiles, to educate myself more than anything.

The term medical textile refers to all textiles which are used for first aid, clinical, surgical and hygienic purposes.

Textile materials have always occupied a fundamental position in the form of fibres: mono- and multi-filiament yarns, spun yarns, woven, knitted, nonwoven and composite. Recently, knitted products are most widely used in medical textiles and it's market share is much higher than medical textiles in other forms. There is quite a varied use of textiles from sutures and hygiene products such as bedding, clothing and operating gowns to highly specialised uses such as creating an artificial organ.

The four key areas of medical textile application are:
- Non- implantable materials, such as wound dressings and bandages.
-Implantable materials, such as sutures, vascular grafts, artificial ligaments.
-Extra-corporeal devices, which are artificial organs to me and you, such as the kidney, liver, lung etc.
-Health care/ hygiene products, such as beddings surgical gowns and sanitary products.

The important functions of medical textiles:
-Protection: provided by gauges, face masks, surgical gowns, gloves and bandages etc.
-Reinforcement: to strengthen and protect the human body: sutures, prostheses, artificial ligaments etc.
-Filtration: provided by the by-pass filter, dialyser, use of membranes.
-Absorption: pads, towels, napkins, cotton wool, swabs etc.
-Containment: nettings, stretchers, wheel chairs etc.
There are also other important functions of medical textiles such as creating veins, arteries and artificial skin.

Wound care management must provide the following:
- Seal the wound and prevent any additional stress or loss of energy.
- Remove any excess toxins.
- Maintain a high level of humidity.
- Provide thermal insulation.
- Act as a barrier against micro organisms
- Removability without causing harm if the dressing needs changing.

I'm aware that medical textiles does not really relate to any of the work that I will produce in my time at Chelsea, however I just find it a really interesting subject, that I previously had very little knowledge on.

References:
-Ray SC (2012). 'Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology', Woodhead Publishing Limited.
-Horrocks AR and Anand SC (2000). Handbook of Technical Textiles, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge in association with The Textile Institute, Abington.

Image Sources:
http://www.sanjayinstruments.com
http://www.sono-tek.com/medical-textilesbandages
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB-WmOdGYijdFOCkgR-_XH_gH2zIdrihRXHUH9xukA1PNOWh3LkwIRxqv7cJCX_QCFuaIEpTw1IgskLMsbHexGZ9aAmj2ufkJfpKrYpz5u1-1jHXLTjnoCyvkzfuCpJAoVk21WNRpREbU/s1600/76d409b1a8.jpg

Lecture 1: What is a Textile?

Textile: 'A flexible material constructed from a network of fibres, natural or synthetic.'

The aim of this lecture was to introduce us to the main commercial fibre types and yarn and fabric manufacturing systems. This lecture broke commercial textiles down into 7 key categories:

Clothing: Probably one of the first things to come to mind when we hear the word 'textile'. The fashion and clothing industry is a huge part of the world of textiles, due to it's aesthetic and consumer nature. However it is important to note that the active sports-wear also falls under this category and is part of a large market in which developments often come from the military sector.

Sportwear inspired collection by ATHELETENIQUE S/S 2012 for RAJO!

Transport: The largest volume use of any technical textile is used in relation to transport, both private and public. It is imperative for these textiles to be strong, durable, soundproof, shockproof, fire resistant, comfortable and light. A car is a good example of this as 60% of the final product is textile.

Interior car fabrics.

Agriculture: Synthetic fabrics are used to warm the soil before planting. Textiles can be used to prolong the growing season and also to deter weeds and insects.

Non-woven crop cover.

Geotextiles: Used in civil engineering, road building, embankments, canals, dams and construction sites. Their function is to strengthen, reinforce, protect, filter and drain. They are also used to prevent coastal decline and to clean up oil spills.

Needle-punched, non-woven polypropylene geotextile.

Medical Textiles: Must be strong, light, durable, sterile, non toxic and biodegradable due to their disposable nature, take hospital gowns for instance. Further examples of medical textiles are wound dressings, knitted heart valves and medical implants.

An example of a knitted biomedical textile.

This is an area of textiles that I had not given much thought to, and I dare say I'm not alone in this, which is absurd when you think about the extent that textiles are used in this industry and how much the medical world have come to rely on them. I suppose it is understandable as it is not a commercial industry, however I would definitely like to research into medical textiles further.

Architecture:  Can be temporary or permanent structures. Fibres must have high tensile strength, be abrasion resistant, inert, UV resistant and pliable.

MYB Textiles + EDO Architecture: The Ghost of Water Row.

Interiors/ Domestic Textiles: Another large commercial industry for textile design.  Curtains, blinds, upholstery, carpets, rugs etc. It is paramount for interior textiles to be UV resistant, flame resistant, stain/dirt resistant and abrasion resistant. Linens are used heavily as interior textiles.

Interior textiles by Timorous Beasties.

Spun yarn: Twisting/Bonding short fibres together.
Filament yarn: Continuos, long fibre.
Non-woven fabrics: Bypass the yarn stage. Defined as a sheet or web structure. They are bonded together by entangling fibre or filaments, mechanically, thermally or chemically. They are used frequently for medical garments as they do not have a long life cycle and can be easily recycled.

Commercial Fibre Sources (natural):

Cotton: Seed hair fibre. Cotton provides around 45% of the world's fibre consumption and is the world's largest non-food crop. Many types of cotton have actually died out as they were not commercially viable. In recent years organic and fair trade cotton has been coming more readily available.

Silk: Protein based animal fibre (the silk worm/moth). Is popular due to it's aesthetics and luxurious quality. Obvious use in the fashion/clothing industry but it is also used heavily in the medical world, cosmetic products, insulation and thermal underwear.




Flax (also known as linseed): fibres from this raw material are known as linens, offers a wide range of uses and products, particularly in the interior textile industry.

Wool: The original high performance fibre, wool has inbuilt thermal qualities, is weatherproof, has UV resistance, fire protection and elasticity.Prices of wool are the highest they have been in around 25 years. 100% machine washable wool has now been made available. Sports wool is a mix of merino wool and polyester. Superfine wool hairs are twice as fine as human hairs and a viscous-like raw material can be produced from the protein found in wool keratin.

Luxury Hair Fibres: Muskox, Opossum, Rabbit, Camel, Vicuna and Cashmere goats all produce luxury fibres. These fibres are very expensive, the most expensive and highly prized in the textile world are obtained from animals living in cold climates. These hollow fibres are excellent insulators. My personal stance, however, is very anti-fur.



Commercial Fibre Sources (man-made):

Polyester: The most used and mass produced man-made fibre as it offers a wide range of functions. Used extensively in the garment industry as it is relatively cheap.  Fibres provides the ability to heat set the fabric, allowing pleats and shapes to be formed and permanently set. These fabrics can also be laser cut and welded.

 Acrylic: An oil based synthetic polymer, which is used in paints and plastics as well as being used in the garment industry as a cheaper alternative to wool. As it is an oil-based fibre, production of acrylics has a detrimental effect on the environment.

Polyamide: Synthetic fibre, known widely as the NYLON brand, also produced from oil. It can be recycled, resists wear and tear and blends well with other fibres. It does not absorb water and is therefore widely used in swimwear.

Stretch Fibres: Comfort, fit, ease or movement and crease recovery are imparted by stretch fibres. Lycra and Low XLA are branded elastic fibres derived from polyurethane. Mechanically crimped yarns from synthetic polyester fibres provide a gentler comfort stretch. Power stretch, for sportswear can assist performance. Stretch fibres also have a use for medical purposes.

Man-made Cellulosics: Produced from natural cellulosic sources of wood, pulp, cotton, linen and bamboo. These textiles are fluid, skin friendly and soft to handle. They have a strong wet strength, high absorbency and provide breathability. The brand Incel produce man-made cellulosics in an environmentally friendly 'closed loop' system. The demand for these fibres is increasing globally as they can be biodegradable.





I found this lecture to be a very informative introduction to the series. I'm not afraid to admit that I often use materials within my own work without even thinking of where it it was made but now I'd like to think that I could make a more informed decision when it comes to textile selection.  It was a welcome crash course into the world of fibres.
What also struck me as interesting was the extent that textile fibres are used in the medical world, in hindsight it's obvious that textiles are a huge part in treating patients but I guess I hadn't properly thought about it until now and I would like to look into it further.

Image Sources:
http://diaryofasolesearcher.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/high-fashion-sportswear-athletenique-by.html
http://carfabrics.blogspot.co.uk/
http://www.hw.ac.uk/sbc/BTRC/BTRC/_private/Whatare.htm
http://www.tradeindia.com/fp928287/Agricultural-Crop-Cover-of-PP-Non-Woven-Fabric.html
http://www.directindustry.com/prod/fibertex-nonwovens/needle-punched-nonwoven-polypropylene-geotextiles-54844-450434.html
http://www.theweaveshed.org/464/myb-textiles-edo-architecture-project/
http://www.ragnewyork.com/blog/choosing-between-pure-cotton-shirts-and-cotton-blend-material/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk
http://greenclothing-style.blogspot.co.uk/2012_05_01_archive.html
http://wool4you.us/cashmere-camel/89-camel-cashmere.html
http://textileengineerr.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/some-common-man-made-fibers.html
http://www.synergysourcing.in/hollow-conjugated-polyester-staple-fiber-316922.html
http://feltingandfiberstudio.com/other-fibers/man-made-fibers/
http://www.rawrdenim.com/dictionary/l/lycra/ 
http://www.carrieparry.com/blog/cat/textile-education-series/